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12.11.2012 13:41:44
Wyspy Trobrianda
Nie jest chyba dla nikogo tajemnicą fakt zaglądania Polaków w te strony; na pewno jest tylko jeden taki powód czyli Bronisław Malinowski. Bo wyspy niczym szczególnym nie wyróżniają się od innych w rejonie południowego Pacyfiku. Ten antropolog o polskich korzeniach w okresie I wojny światowej jako obywatel Cesarstwa Austro-Węgierskiego, po uzyskaniu odpowiednich pozwoleń, mógł udać się na Wyspy Trobrianda, by w sposób do tej pory zupełnie nieznany, badać zwyczaje tubylców, mieszkając z nimi przez dłuższy okres. Owocem tego pobytu są opisy naocznego świadka, przygotowanego do takiego żmudnego i trudnego przedsięwzięcia. Malinowski opisał m.in. zwyczaje seksualne tubylców, o które nie omieszkaliśmy zapytać Kennetha, naszego gospodarza na Kiriwinie. A chodziło o "wygryzanie" włosków z powiek podczas stosunku seksualnego. Jego odpowiedź była trochę wymijająca i traktował ją jako wstydliwą, ale potwierdził fakt istnienia takich praktyk także teraz. Profesor Malinowski już wtedy przewidywał, że ten system pierwotnych form życia nie ma szans na przetrwanie w starciu z cywilizacją, która dotarła na Kiriwinę wraz z misjonarzami /21 lat wcześniej/ i urzędnikami kolonialnymi /10 lat przed Malinowskim/. Kościół zachęcał tubylców, by rezygnowali z poligamii i stosunków kazirodczych; takie samo prawo wprowadzali urzędnicy.... Dla "ciekawskich" tego świata zostało tylko sprawdzić, co się zmieniło w życiu Trobriandczyków, a co z ich tradycji przetrwało do dziś. Jakie było nasze zdziwienie, gdy na Kiriwinie spotkaliśmy Polkę, która przyjechała na wyspę, by opisać "życie seksualne dzikich" sto lat po Malinowskim. Pani Ola Krzyżaniak-Gumowska zamieszkała na miesiąc w Omarakanie, w której to wiosce przed prawie wiekiem żył profesor Malinowski, by spróbować opisać dzisiejszą rzeczywistość Kiriwiny i zmiany jakie przyniosła tubylcom cywilizacja. Mieszkańców na wyspie jest w porównaniu sprzed wieku ponad trzykrotnie więcej /około 36000/, więc żyje się im na pewno lepiej; jest szpital, szkoły, posterunek policji, kościoły...Są samochody m.in. Toyota Kennetha, która miała jeszcze klimatyzację, ale wg właściciela za jakiś czas przestanie działać, bo na Kiriwinie nie ma warsztatu, który miał możliwość uzupełnić instalację w potrzebny gaz. Zdobyczą cywilizacyjną ostatniego okresu jest telefon komórkowy, na który "zachorowało" bardzo wielu tubylców. Podczas przygotowań do pokazu tańców regionalnych jedna z tancerek ubrana w skąpy strój musiała zadzwonić czym zabiła moje bardzo emocjonalne zaangażowanie się w ten pokaz. Kiriwina jest bardzo rzadko odwiedzaną wyspą przez turystów; w okresie naszego pobytu przebywało tam siedmiu Polaków i grupa wolontariuszy z Anglii - 6 osób, które pracowały w lokalnym szpitalu. Średnio rocznie na Trobriandach można się doliczyć około 100 odwiedzających.
Jednak, by dostać się na Kiriwinę w najprostszy sposób trzeba odwiedzić stolicę PNG - Port Moresby, gdzie można zostać zaskoczonym tak "na dzień dobry". Parę pierwszych zdjęć z galerii jest zrobionych właśnie tam.
Jednak, by dostać się na Kiriwinę w najprostszy sposób trzeba odwiedzić stolicę PNG - Port Moresby, gdzie można zostać zaskoczonym tak "na dzień dobry". Parę pierwszych zdjęć z galerii jest zrobionych właśnie tam.
Galeria
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